REVIEW: The Blue Pelican, Deal
“…a perfectly-formed menu of small and sharing plates pairs Japanese headline ingredients with European undertones...”
Overlooking the seafront and Deal’s commanding pier, The Blue Pelican is an establishment that has attracted attention from the national dining scene since its opening earlier in 2024.
The sister site to nearby revered hotel and eatery The Rose, the Pelican has emerged to be much more than the younger sibling. In a converted townhouse - complete with its own yoga studio and treatment rooms - the smallish space is used brilliantly, with a chequered-floored, bright Mediterranean-feeling dining area balanced against the close quarters ‘chef’s counter’ that provides the buzz from diners overlooking the open flames attend to by chef Luke Green and his team.
Inspired by Japanese Izakaya, a natural wine list, a series of Far Eastern spirits and cocktails make up the bevvies. Meanwhile a perfectly-formed menu of small and sharing plates pairs Japanese headline ingredients with European undertones. Each option has pull, it carries no dish.
Served on a bamboo tray, a raft of bowls arrived as part of the lunchtime set menu (£23). The delicate gamba prawns were washed in an incredible rich beef fat butter - there’s plenty, so save it for dipping later.
The airy crumbed croquette was filled with creamy crab packed full of flavour with a peppery tartar-esque sauce adding a bit of tasty tartness to the sweet shellfish.
A sake cup of smoked broth was a great accompaniment to the beautiful sticky steamed rice - a dish that does its utmost to prove the point that there is good rice and bad rice. A punchy bowl of pickles and ferments made up of zinging slices of radish, mushroom and lemon took the flavours in another, alluring direction.
Outside the set menu, from the larger sharing options, the pork katsu (£38) was spectacular.
The rich katsu flavour and crunchy breadcrumbs on thinly sliced melt-in-the-mouth pork - each piece with its own smidgen of flavourful fat - were balanced alongside the bitter leaf salad in a sesame dressing.
From the sides, we chose the unbelievable smoked potatoes (£8). They were equal parts fluffy and crumbly on a bed of purple kale in a sweet and sour sumiso sauce.
It was a seriously good meal. On the wall, a large fabric mural of the local seafront by Kent artist Tom Maryniak, and inspired by Hokusai’s Great Wave off Kanagawa, says it best - this is Japanese, done Deal style. Flavours.
