Every now and again there is a restaurant opening that sets the foodie antennae buzzing…

Rare-roasted sirloin of Longhorn beef with beef dripping roast carrots, creamed spinach and port gravy

Every now and again there is a restaurant opening that sets the foodie antennae buzzing, like Tinky Winky with a restaurant blog. Maybe it’s because of the location, sometimes it’s because of the chef, and occasionally it’s because of the menu, but rarely it’s because of all three.

On the outskirts of Ashford, the Grade II-listed, 17th-century Boys Hall (@boys.hall) has been painstakingly restored by new owners Kristie and Brad Lomas. The manor offers private dining areas and an inviting velvet-seated drawing room that will no doubt be enjoyed with an evening tipple by overnight guests when the rooms open around Christmas time.

But right now there’s the on-site pub – yep – and the immaculate dining room.

Ancient oak beams and a brick fireplace form the aged structural surrounds of a modern, swish restaurant, surrounded by glass to make use of the views and terrace in the summer and reflecting back a warm atmosphere and lively bar in the winter darkness.

House-cured blackened salmon, with cultured cream jelly, balsamic pearls, puffed spelt and dill oil

There’s experience here. Brad was the former operations director of East London Pub Co, and Kristie is the founder of Drink, Shop & Do. Despite what some may continue to recite, it’s become a bit, well, obvious to say head chef Robbie Lorraine will be making the most of the ‘Garden of England’s’ fare. Kent’s got sh*t-hot ingredients, we know that. It’s what you do with it that counts.

Start with the snacks: the giant pork scratchings for dipping in a spiced pear compote and a pair of ham-hock fritters perfect with a piccalilli puree for a tongue-tingling opener. We’ll go for the lobster doughnuts when we visit the pub next time.

Lobster doughnuts next to the giant pork scratchings and spiced pear compote

As a starter, house-cured blackened salmon, decorated with cultured cream jelly, balsamic pearls, puffed spelt and dill oil was outrageously good. The mains list causes a good problem. It comprises six choices, each with a classic centrepiece, a creative side project and an element of surprise.

Take the pan-roasted fillet of wild sea bass, with its carrot ravioli and apple and seaweed broth. Or the cider-braised belly of pork, with its porky Quaver, bacon jam and black pudding.

I chose the perfectly rare-roasted sirloin of Longhorn beef with beef dripping roast carrots, creamed spinach and port gravy… plus a little salt-baked turnip-topped ox-cheek cottage pie on the side for good measure. Outstanding.

The wine list is made up mostly of Kentish wines across fizz, white and red, while the cocktail list, and especially the Nospresso Martinis for my driver (yeah, it was her turn), were worth traversing the Ashford one-way system on their own.

Yes. You should go.