BITE CLUB: Review - Twenty Seven Harbour Street, Broadstairs
Controversial topic... or perhaps not… ‘Do you roast in the summer?’
Twenty Seven Harbour Street, Broadstairs
Controversial topic... or perhaps not… ‘Do you roast in the summer?’
Twenty Seven Harbour Street in Broadstairs has become well known for its stunning array of Mediterranean small plates under head chef Ben Wood, who previously achieved Michelin success with London tapas restaurant Barrafina. But we had heard that the roasts at the family-owned restaurant were something to behold.
Sat with views of the golden sand of Viking Bay on a warm Sunday afternoon, we took in an early summer roasting. Worried what our families might think of this outlandish behaviour, we kept on our sunglasses and fake moustaches for fear of being recognised. We needn't have bothered. These roasts were far from typical.
We started with Whitstable rock oysters (£4), fresh and spiced with charred chilli and a wild garlic stem - beautiful.
The mains menu had six options ranging from Kentish lamb loin to côte de boeuf (each with a wine pairing suggestion), but we opted firstly for the porchetta (£24), served with burnt-apple ketchup. While those wacky Italians don’t restrict the dish to Sundays, this roast was melt-in-the-mouth, complete with salty crackling, and a perfect porky alternative.
We went off-piste once more with the roast halibut (£34) in a crab butter. A stunning portion that allowed the lightness and delicate flavours of the fish to do the talking.
That day, each roast was served with heritage carrots with pine nuts and wild garlic pesto, crispy kale, roasted artichoke, Pomme Anna potatoes and a classic Yorkshire pudding (so they are human, after all), with roasted celeriac purée as a sweet addition.
We added a cauliflower cheese pangrattato (£10) as a side dish, which was roasted and elevated with the crispy breadcrumbs and rich cheese. I guess we have the answer. Yes, yes, we summer roast!
