Q&A - Kent Fashion designer James Small on new brand À Couvert
Fashion designer James Small on old friends, technical clothing and new brand À Couvert
Having been spotted in a number of Margate hotspots surrounded by friends (we presumed) during a snooping session on Instagram, it was only right for us to ask renowned fashion designer James Small what the f*ck he was up to daaan there.
It turns out that his roots are in Kent and best mate Joe Lye is one of the brains behind one of ‘cene Mag’s favourite shops - Albion Stores on Fort Road. More than that, another childhood chum is Lee Coad, the restaurateur behind Angela’s and Dory’s in the Old Town. Quite a trio.
Having grown up in Canterbury, James Small made his own assault on the fashion industry, graduating from the London College of Fashion in 2001 before being awarded New Generation status at London Fashion Week by the British Fashion Council.
Probably best known for his eponymous menswear label, James has worked with international fashion houses and collaborated with a wealth of stars, including a memorable short film with Jaime Winstone and Vauxhall Motors (Google it).
Aside from occasionally chilling with pals on the Thanet coastline, James has been busy launching his new brand À Couvert (@a_couvert ), which comprises “contemporary versions of traditional military technical coats to create the silhouettes of heroes from a time gone by for the modern wearer”.
The limited-edition garments are handmade in England, using premium fabrics from internationally-renowned mills and manufactured right here in Blighty.
Working with a raft of music producers and actors to “reflect the bold and audacious nature of the collection”, À Couvert has introduced a stunning new range, from trench coats to field jackets and cargo pants to tech pants, with a focus on quality, detail and funky little extras.
Celebrating “heritage and hell raising in equal measure”, James says: “Our coats are for the gentleman, not the everyman, for the bold and the brave, the radical and rebellious”. We caught up with the fashion designer for a quick tête-à-tête .
We have seen you popping up in Margate, including at one of our favourite shops, Albion Stores - what are your links to the area?
I was born in Canterbury and moved to London with my best friends Joe and Lee.
I’m still in London, but they have moved to Margate. Lee now owns Angela’s and Dory’s, and Joe the shop Albion Stores, so I’m always down there hanging out.
We’d love to talk to you about your new brand À Couvert – firstly, where does the name come from?
It’s French for ‘Undercover’!
For people who perhaps haven’t yet seen it (how very dare them!), how is À Couvert different from your previous brand James Small Menswear?
The James Small brand was more formal and involved doing catwalk shows during fashion week; À Couvert is set up as a brand and more user-friendly.
“I’ve been collecting military [garments] for 20 years, and it still surprises me now, finding new details on old uniforms”
Was there a feeling of ‘fresh slate’ or ‘starting again’ during conception?
Definitely! You learn very quickly what not to do and what’s unnecessary.
We understand that all pieces are handmade here in the UK - was actively flying in the face of ‘Fast Fashion’ always at the forefront of the project?
It’s definitely a positive and people are really clued up nowadays. But also it’s good as we can oversee every step of the operation.
Are good-quality, hard-wearing technical pieces having a moment right now, or have those elements always been there?
I think they have always been there but are more accessible now. I’ve been collecting military [garments] for 20 years and it still surprises me now, finding new details on old uniforms.
How do you think men’s fashion has changed since the launch of James Small Menswear and now À Couvert?
Men have opened up a lot more and are far more experimental.
You have worked with some huge stars and models over the years; how did you decide on the current cast of actors and musicians when shooting the À Couvert range?
They’re all friends of the brand!
What’s your main route to market with À Couvert?
We are stocked in Flannels at the moment and, of course, our own website where we can offer exclusives.
We have seen you have some amazing and out-there collaborations in the past - is that something we can expect again?
Yes! We have some very exciting collabs already in the pipeline with some huge brands.
What is your favourite piece of the current À Couvert collection?
I love the bonded-fabric Parkas; the sheepskin pockets are great for the cold weather.
If there was a location in Margate where you’d love to see someone wearing one of your pieces, where would it be?
Around the pool table in The Wig & Pen!
