BITE CLUB: MASH IT UP
We head around the county to find a classic East End favourite, pie & mash
Sie’s Pie & Mash, Gravesend
“Apples and pears, you’re ‘avin a bubble, you’ve got a lovely boat race, knees up Mother Brown!”
For those of you who don’t speak Cockney Rhyming Slang, I just told you to have a look at these wicked haunts offering top notch Pie & Mash.
Smuggled down the river (or the A2), these traditional delights are a better East End double- act than Phil and Grant Mitchell.
Like so many of us with an association to Laandaan, they’ve made their way out to the provinces, and they continue to be extremely popular.
Traditionally the puff pastry pie is filled with minced beef while the mash potato is usually covered with liquor – no not alcohol – a sauce made from stewed eel water and parsley (though not everyone uses eel water anymore).
Contrary to belief you don’t actually have to have the pie and mash with liquor, you can have it with gravy, but you do run the risk of people referring to you as “Sissy” for the rest of the day.
Some say the dish originated in Henry Blanchard’s shop in Southwark, others that it was in F.Cooke’s, and still more say it was Manze’s... but let’s not get into all that, it could get “pwopper nawty”.
Anyway, here are four pearly purveyors of Pie & Mash in Kent.
Sie’s Pie & Mash, Gravesend
St Georges Centre, Gravesend, DA11 0TA Facebook: @pieandmashGravesend
With traditional black and white tiles, shining metal counter and cheery banter, Sie’s Pie & Mash in Gravesend takes our hero spot.
Long-time family business Sie’s sister shop, Raymond’s of Eltham, has been open for almost a quarter of a century, while the Gravesend branch appeared just off the high street in late 2015.
Though open from 10am for breakfast, it is lunchtimes when Sie’s really comes into its own. The traditional bench booths are filled with punters of all ages who can pick up pie, mash and liquor for as little as £4.
“We serve traditional Pie & Mash and Eels (jellied or stewed) using an authentic East End recipe with liquor or gravy,” says the slogan. It does exactly what it says on the A-board... and more.
On our visit recently we saw some 20 balls of mash with corresponding pies being bagged up for either a team of takeaway liquor lovers, or one seriously hungry bloke.
All pies are made fresh on the premises daily using 100% British beef mince but there is also vegetarian Quorn mince options which are cooked to order.
Sie’s has its own unique touch, offering both traditional and chilli vinegar from recycled Jack Daniel’s Whiskey bottles complete with shot pouring spout. Customers collect their own cutlery and serviettes and are more than happy to do so. It’s like some sort of Shoreditch retro restaurant, except it’s not retro, it’s real, and there is no one riding a penny farthing ironically.
Laney’s
Open4-8pm
• Newtown Social Club, Halling - Tues • Barnfield, Chatham - Wed
• Wainscott Rd, Rochester - Thur
• Sycamore Road, Strood - Fri
Facebook: @LaneysPieandMash
The fluorescent lighting around the top of Laney’s Pie & Mash van illuminates the faces on a queue of people waiting for their weekly fix of delicious pastry, mince and potato.
The mobile munch machine heads to designated spots around the Medway towns on different nights of the week and the locals love it.
Serving up pies supplied by Goddard’s (another candidate for the East End pie and mash top dog), Laney’s offers your classic pie, mash and liquor (and gravy for losers), ready to enjoy at home, in your car, or wherever you like.
With their own chilli vinegar available to purchase and take home with you, Laney’s has taken its old school, delicious charm into the modern realm of street food, and for only £4.50, you’ve got to try it.
See Laney’s at Newtown Social Club Halling on Tuesdays; Barnfield in Chatham on Wednesday; Wainscott Road on Thursdays; and Sycamore Road in Strood on Fridays - 4pm to 8pm.
The Ship Inn, Ospringe
12 Ospringe St, Faversham ME13 8TL Facebook: @TheShipInnOspringe
On the edge of Faversham, The Ship Inn at Ospringe lines the old London to Dover road, complete with its own war-time army pillbox. A West Ham flag flies above the pub giving you an idea of the birthplace of its landlord. Inside it’s a comfortable, welcoming pub that knocks out fantastic food and a friendly smile. There’s a great garden in the summer and a cosy fireside in the winter.
But arguably the ace up their sleeve is Pie & Mash night. Every first Wednesday evening and Thursday lunchtime of the month The Ship offers pie, mash and liquor, with a drink, for only £7.95. But be sure to reserve your seats and your pies because they are delivered all the way from Manze’s in the East End! Amazing.
Pie & Mash Shop, Whitstable
15 Harbour Street, Whitstable CT5 1AQ Facebook: WhitstablePieAndMash
A newcomer to popular Harbour Street, Whitstable Pie & Mash Shop has already made an impact.
With an aquamarine exterior and classic interior, it really stands out! But you have to head inside and meet Dave, June and Lisa to get the full experience. “Alma Chizzit? Less than a Lady Godiva for pie, mash and liquor” it cheekily says on the chalkboard, not to mention “No kwarta pandas ‘ere!” and “Take it home: More impact than a bunch of flowers #browniepoints”.
The food is great. With classic freshly, handmade pies flying out the door with the Whitstable locals while those who sit indoors can admire the interior complete with local artwork featured at the Turner Contemporary this summer.
Look out for the warm sarsaparilla and the hot salt beef beigels - Brick Lane style - that come from the same supplier as those sold in Selfridges!