48 Hours in... Lisbon

Travel columnist Julia Hanley-Gordon spends 48 hours in Portugal’s capital Lisbon to eat fish from tins and stare at street art

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Lisbon has all that you would expect from a Euro trip with it’s romantic castles, cobbled-stoned streets, tiled buildings and gothic looks, but at the same time it’s modern and dynamic with a young energy that’s fun.

It’s a city break that you can make into any holiday you want it to be. From soaking up the sun and eating natas (custard tarts) to partying all night in bars and clubs. You can have whatever you want in Lisbon but just be ready to walk up a lot of hills to get it.


Food

Pasteis de Belem - Rua de Belém 84
This is a must-go place to have Portugal’s national pastry the nata (custard tarts). You order them at the counter but go inside and explore the rooms, the traditional tiles that line the walls are really beautiful. You can get natas all over the city but at Pasteis de Belem they truly are the best.

Santinni - Rua do Carmo 9
This is the oldest and most famous ice cream parlour in Lisbon for a reason; it’s the most delicious in the city. Often you have to wait in line but it moves quickly and it’s worth the wait. The gelato and sorbets are made with real and natural ingredients and the taste really attests to that. You might find yourself going more than once.

Sol e Pesca - Rua Nova do Carvalho 44
Located along Lisbon's Pink street (and under a former brothel-turned-bar) this is a quirky tapas bar with a difference - they serve all types of seafood out of tins. Eating out of tins might not be your first choice when going out to eat but they do it with care and attention and it’s actually very nice.

Time Out Market - Avenida 24 de Julho
Do not miss the Time Out Market, where all of Lisbon’s best restaurants have opened up stalls selling their most famous menu items. There are so many food and drink options, it’s best to walk through the market first before deciding what to order. It’s a fun way to try many different types of food Lisbon has on offer.


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Drinks

A Ginginha - Largo de Sao Domingos 8 Lisbon is known for their Ginginha (Cherry Liquor) which can be found all over the city.
But the most famous and authentic one is A Ginginha, a tiny little bar (basically a cupboard). They serve little glasses of local Ginginha liqueur for a little over 1EURO and you drink it right outside in the square with locals.

Pharmacia - Rua Marechal Saldanha 1
This place is a lovely restaurant but the cocktails and atmosphere is the reason to go. Sharing the same building as the Museu de Farmacia you will see the pharmacy theme throughout the restaurant and bar. The best part is the terrace seating and large lawn that have views over the city and the Tagas River.

Park - Calçada do Combro 58
To get to this bar you literally have to walk through a parking garage and up to the roof. The bar is so cool, once you are up there you can’t believe that you are on top of a carpark. You can sit and relax there all day or come for the sunset before you head out for the night.


Partying

Lux - Av. Infante D. Henrique
Described as the best club in town by my Portuguese friends, it’s open until 6am so you can sit on the roof and watch the sunrise before you head home. It’s known for having a tough door policy but in my opinion as long as you are not overly drunk you should be fine. The music is really good and the people you meet inside are fun.

Bar 49 - Rua da Barroca 49
This hipster party is in a rundown art space called ze dos Bois (ZDB) that makes profit from having gigs/parties. The gallery itself is great but the parties are even better with DJs and bands using the indoor and outdoor spaces. The bar is open till 2am on week nights and even later on the weekend.


Where to stay

Bairro Alto Hotel - Praca Luis de Camoes 2
Of all the hotels in Lisbon the Bairro Alto Hotel has the best location right in the centre of it all. The rooms are gorgeous with very comfortable beds. The roof bar shouldn’t be missed, even if you aren’t staying at this hotel, it offers excellent drinks with even better views.

Palácio Ramalhete - Rua das Janelas Verdes 92
An exquisite boutique hotel, it has the feeling of living in a 18th Century Portugese Palace, which it is. There is a plunge pool to cool off in and lots of areas to lounge around. There is a very cool feeling to the hotel and the guests are all of a similar manner.


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Culture

Fundacao Gulbenkian - Avenida de Berna 45A This museum is a little outside the city centre but is still worth checking out. The collections change from time to time so it is worth checking out what is on before you go. Even if you aren’t a huge art lover, the gardens and modern architecture of the building is an awesome place to hang out and absorb the culture.

Alfama area - This fashionable district is one of the oldest in Lisbon. It’s an exciting labryinth of cobbled streets and beautiful buildings that lead up to the castle of São Jorge. It’s a wonderful place to get lost in. A tip to get there, ride the number 28 tram up to the Graca district and walk downhill, instead of walking uphill from Baixa.

Belem area - Belem is an area more to the West of Lisbon in the mouth of the River Tejo. It’s a very beautiful part of town and is essential to go there for two reasons: to eat the best custard tarts in the country and to see Jeronimos Monastery. Take tram number 15 from Praca do Comercio or from Cais do Sodre to Belem.