Harriet Hill: The Knitty Gritty
Designer Harriet Hill aims to bring her own brand of knitwear to the streets of Kent
“I feel like it gets bad press because I think everyone just thinks that we’re all old people that sit in a circle and make jumpers, but for a lot of people it is very machine-focused.”
Harriet Hill is about to launch a clothing brand under her own name that has a heavy focus on knitwear. And despite a bit of a trendy rebirth that saw crochet on public transport become a ‘thing’, the word ‘knitting’ does still conjure up images that Harriet wants to eradicate.
Having specifically studied knitwear at university (yes, it has its own degree), Harriet began to weave her craft at fashion institutions like Pringle of Scotland, as well as getting handknit experience with crocheting icon Debbie Bliss.
And while much of the modern knitters use machines for their art, Harriet will be handknitting her first collection. So, she’s a bit of a knitting nut…
“Essentially, yeah. I like the organic route because I enjoy the process. And some people are far more into the way that the machine works. I suppose it’s kind of like having an engineering brain, really, isn’t it?
Having bagged a first job as a junior knitwear designer for a handknit business that sells yarns and patterns, the next move was to go out on her own, returning briefly to her native Medway before being ensnared by Margate’s tractor beam.
The first batch of Harriet Hill garments is set to drop in Autumn.
“Because that’s what everyone wants in summer, a jumper,” Harriet jokes. And then there will be intermittent drops of new items… because, let’s face it, knitting by hand is a slightly slower process than making your average T-shirt.
“It’s the most sustainable way of doing it, where I wasn’t gonna over-produce stuff that people don’t need and also burn myself out as well. I’m trying to keep it manageable because everything is handmade by me in my little studio, my little house. So it’s not like it’s being sent off to lots of different people.”
While the aim in the future is to recruit more knitters to produce garments, right now Harriet will be going it alone to turn her graduation collection into the first batch.
“I think I’m trying to focus on the idea that they’re seasonless pieces because I think to brand something as ‘it’s spring or summer’ is kind of like limiting the garment, which is not what I’m aiming for.”
A photoshoot in a supermarket has caught the attention of the Insta scrollers with a set of clothes that will be providing the base on which the first drop will be built.
“Yeah, we got some really strange looks. But it was fun. That’s been the starting point. I’ve just kind of picked up and run with it since then.
“I’m trying to keep my eye out for a good-looking supermarket [to shoot the first official drop], or doing it in a cafe or a little greasy-spoon.”
The juxtaposition of the colourful knitwear in a, perhaps, drearier background will help Harriet get her aims across.
“Does there have to be this preconceived idea of what it [knitwear] is? I’m trying to make it young again. Because otherwise it’s a lost skill. And I think that’s quite a shame.
“When I did my graduate collection, it was called ‘just popping to the shops’. So just throw it on and pop to the shops.
“I try to focus on the fun and the whimsical side of things. And I think as long as people appreciate that and they like it, I just love the idea of people wanting to wear it.
“I suppose it’s kind of a response to how, you know, things are quite serious and it’s been quite a challenging couple of years, so I quite like the idea of the one thing that doesn’t have to be challenging is the way that you dress and the colours that you pick.
“It’s like this whole kind of idea of dopamine dressing as well. I think it’s quite a good one where people just like dressing exactly how they want. They’re like ‘I’m gonna wear pink today because pink makes me happy’.”
The efforts that go into making handknitted pieces is, apart from anything, long. So where does the majority of the work take place?
“I watch so much crap TV all the time. Like, well, I’ve got to do it. So I do it anywhere. Take it to the beach, so if there’s sand in the jumpers I’m sorry. I think that’s something that’s been really nice, actually – over the past couple of years knitting, especially with lockdown, has had a resurgence. A lot of younger people are picking up the skill.”
INSTA: @harriethill23