48 Hours in... Warsaw
Travel columnist Julia Hanley-Gordon spends 48 hours in the vibrant polish city of Warsaw
Not many people think of going to Poland on holiday and if they do they visit Krakow. Well, there is another city that has just as much going on and, in my opinion, a lot cooler, Warsaw.
From the Old Town and National Museum, to nightlife and a rich underground scene spread across the city, there is enough for the tourist and the adventurer in all of us.
In just two hours and 25 minutes you can find yourself in this exciting city eating delicious Pierogis, drinking £1 beers and 70p shots of vodka. This city truly rewards explorers.
Food
Prasowy - prasowy.pl
A Milk Bar is an ex-Socialist era canteen where workers could get a healthy cheap meal. After all the major wars, Milk Bars started disappearing. But fortunately, there has been a revival (of the bars, not the wars) in the last 10 years and Prasowy is my favourite.
Probably the most inexpensive meal you will have out, you will get a hearty, traditional and delicious Polish meal. The menu is written in Polish but friendly staff are happy to help you order because they speak near perfect English.
Butchery and Wine - butcheryandwine.pl
Easily the best steakhouse in Warsaw, Butchery and Wine is more expensive than most meals out here but worth every penny. They have an extensive wine list that includes Polish wines that really impress. The atmosphere is modern and if you’re lucky enough to have nice weather you can sit outside. For the more adventurous, order the duck heart starter, it’s like succulent bites of steak – I promise! But vegetarians beware – this place isn’t for you.
U Fukiera - ufukiera.pl
U Fukiera is the oldest restaurant in Warsaw. Its traditional decoration and Polish menu really make you appreciate Warsaw’s history. One of the high-end venues in the Old Town, their most famous dish is the duck, which shouldn’t be missed. The portions are huge so keep that in mind when ordering. It’s quirky, cluttered and has a fantastic wonderland feel.
Drinking
Piw Paw www.piwpaw.pl
The bar has 61 beers on tap, 200 bottled beers
and is open 24 hours. That’s probably all you need to know, but Piw Paw is also very cool and relaxed – a lot like all the people there. They offer flights of beers so you can have a taster of a few and find the ones you like best. You can order food here, too, so you don’t really have to leave if you don’t want to.
Nowy Świat Street
This isn’t a bar but an area to go out in. The famous Pawilony (a touristy Royal Route) is at the back of Nowy Świat street, which has many tiny bars next to each other. To enter, go through the gate next to Subway number 24. Each cosy bar has a similar layout but with entirely individual décor – from tropical islands to mystical fairies, and cat-themes to erotic gadgets.
Clubbing
NiePowiem - niepowiem.com
This hipster venue brings in a really nice young crowd. The weekdays are more chilled and the weekend becomes a full-on dance party. They have an excellent selection of drinks from beers to cocktails. They always have a good DJ playing and other fun events in the basement.
Hydrozagadka - 11 Listopada 22, 03-001 Warsaw Known better as Hydro, this ex-printing house is located in the up-and-coming Praga district right on the river. This is more of a venue for concerts but DJs take over afterwards. The crazy sound system blasts all sorts of genres building a great atmosphere. No matter what is on, you are guaranteed to have a fun night there.
Luzztro - Aleje Jerozolimskie 6, 00-001 Warsaw When you don’t want the night to end you go to Luzztro. This place closes at noon on Saturday and Sunday and the dance floor is packed until the bitter end. As the night goes on, the electronic music gets harder but any techno or house fan will still like it. You never feel your best leaving a club when the sun has risen but at least after Luzztro you know you maxed out your night in Warsaw to the fullest.
Culture
Warsaw Uprising Museum - 1944.pl/en
This should be your first stop in Warsaw. It really gives you a good history and appreciation of the city. As it says in its name, the museum is about the uprising of Warsaw in World War II to liberate the city from German occupation. It’s a sombre experience but essential to understand Warsaw and Poland in general.
Street Art
All around the city you will see the ever-growing wall murals. This street art is fast becoming a huge part of the city’s landscape. Each summer the Street Art Doping Festival invites Europe's top street artists to leave their large-scale marks around town. Keep your eyes open when walking around, the whole city is like a gallery.
Stay
H15 Hotel - h15boutiqueapartments.com/en/
One of the best things about visiting Poland is the five-star hotels that cost as much as a two-star in the UK. The H15 hotel is a great example of this. It’s a hotel that also has some apartments you can rent with slick interiors. The entire hotel is very chic and in a good location.
Tatamka - tatamkahostel.pl/eng
If you’re planning a group trip on a budget, then look no further than the Tatamka Hostel. There are private rooms for groups of up to four and larger rooms for groups of up to six people. Tatamka is centrally located and the rooms are clean and nicer than your standard hostel.