TRIPS AWAY: The Charm of Chang Mai
A jewel in the north of Thailand, Chiang Mai has got it right, using its characteristics to attract travellers without succumbing to the tourist trail. Once a jungle city, Chiang Mai’s Old Town is enclosed by an ancient wall and river, with city gates on each side providing access but also acting as great compass points. It is a small and friendly city (only 25 minutes’ walk across it) and extremely welcoming to travellers and holidaymakers without losing its original charm.
EAT
Cooking Love, Sri Poom Road,
Food is at the centre of Chiang Mai’s economy, with locals and tourists alike sharing tables at the side of every road. While street food is plentiful, to go one up in quality (but not in price) visit Cooking Love (a three-minute walk from the Tha Phae Gate). Take off your shoes before entry and watch the open kitchen as dish after dish of the best Thai food is served up. If there is a queue, wait… it’s worth it.
Taste From Heaven, Ratmakka Road
If you want an experience in how to eat well without harming the planet, Taste From Heaven is a superb teacher. Dedicated to veganism, with inspirational quotes from famed thinkers adorning the walls, the menu offers a lesson in how to use tofu and mushrooms properly. It has all the Thai dishes you could want.
VISIT
Riverside district
East of Chiang Mai’s Old Town, the Riverside district possesses all the old-world charm for which Chiang Mai is so renowned. The riverbanks of the Mae Ping are teeming with affordable eateries and live-music venues.
On the right-hand side of the river you will encounter locals fishing, street food vendors and the Warorot day market, where fruit and cheap textiles are plentiful. Crossing the bridge will take you to the north side of the Ping, where things really come alive as the likes of The Good View bar and restaurant, Bus Bar and Deck 1 take your night away from you.
Nimman district
West from the Old City Walls, Nimman is where the students of Chiang Mai University gather. More polished in its approach than the Old City, it has become known for its coffee culture, ice cream bars and fashion centres. The Maya Mall is complemented by venues such as Ristr8to - Specialty Coffee, Free Bird Café, Warm Up Cafe and I-Berry Cafe, while more modern drinking and dining venues to check out include Beer Lab (bring ID), Beast Burger, Salad Concept and the Kad Na Mor student night market.
DRINK
THC Rooftop Bar, Kotchasarn Road
A funky rooftop bar with cheap prices and an amazingly chilled atmosphere.
Either slip off your shoes and relax on a futon or sit on the balcony overlooking the buzzing streets.
THC, so called because it was started by a hemp trader, serves up veggie food, local beers and cocktails to a background of UV artwork while DJs provide a mixture of trance and reggae music.
Zoe in Yellow, Rajvithi Road
Zoe in Yellow is the party venue in Chiang Mai. With a dance floor and communal benches – and surrounded by seven other bars, each offering slightly different music, ranging from dance, pop and hip hop to drum’n’bass, techno and reggae – Zoe in Yellow has something for everyone.
It is open every evening from sunset until midnight, and there are always travellers dancing and drinking. Cocktails are priced at 100 baht (£2.25 to you and me).
STAY
Tamarind Village, Rachadamnoen Road
A boutique hotel in the northern Thai Lanna style, built around a magnificent 200-year-old tamarind tree, Tamarind is an oasis of calm in the bustling city. It offers rooms that reflect the rich ethnic diversity of the area, beautiful pool areas and the amazing Ruen restaurant serving traditional Thai food. It isn’t the cheapest hotel in the city, but it is arguably the most relaxing.
DISCOVER
The markets
The locals in Chiang Mai love trading. And there is no better place to see the variety of food, drinks, art, crafts and homemade clothing than the markets. The walking markets (Saturday night and Sunday) offer a more, turn up, pitch up and sell style market, with everything from vintage clothing to bamboo cutlery. The monstrous night bazaar, on the other hand, is a mish-mash of everything you could ever dream to find in Thailand. Not always for the faint-hearted, with crowds and questionable items on sale… but not to be missed.
The wats
Buddhist temples, or wats, are plentiful in Chiang Mai. Virtually every major street has one. But the only one you must not miss is the magnificent Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. The journey up the winding mountain road is an experience in itself.
The final leg of the journey requires a 309-step walk up to reach the 600-year-old golden ‘chedi’ at the top that towers above the surrounding temple building and monks’ living quarters. The views across the city are exceptional.
Thai Farm Cooking School
ver wanted to learn how to make tom yam soup, green curry and pad thai noodles? Well, the Thai Farm Cooking School takes you on a trip to the market before heading back to its organic farm to pick, taste and cook your way to becoming a Thai chef.